Sony is one of the most trusted, highest quality brands available to anyone. Their designs (ranging from televisions to cameras and yes, laptops) are expensive, but the cliche 'You get what you pay for' has never fitted so well. When choosing to buy a Sony Vaio, it's important that you consider a few things.
-Do you really want a laptop?
So many people (myself included) browse eBay searching for a brilliant Vaio. What a lot of us fail to take into consideration is what a notebook really is for. Never will it replace your desktop (Unless, you don't expect it to be portable, or don't expect a long battery life). The few desktop replacement Vaios out there are heavy, and short on battery life. They are also a great deal more expensive than a normal desktop. The only saving grace of these notebooks is the size taken up on desk, and the style (wow factor).
If you want a Sony Vaio for intensive gaming, in-depth video editing or something processor heavy, you can forget any chances of portability. While some notebooks in the Sony range will allow you to play most of the latest games (at lower details), it'll chew up battery life very quickly. Video editing will also be a slow and laborious task, I use my Vaio for the simply 'dump and burn', where I dump footage, cut out the bits I don't want, and burn it, no special effects added.
- What Vaio do you want?
Unfortunately, with most notebooks you can't get two of the criteria listed at once. The Vaios that can do this will either suffer some other problem in one of the other criteria, or will be ridiculously expensive.
Orignal From: Buying a Vaio
Saturday, October 31, 2009
buying a field/hunting /tactical knife
G'day to all since I first became a member on E-bay I've been shocked by the large number of no name knives claiming to be top quality. So I'd thought I'd write a guide based on my experience over the years, I've been making knives for 17 years now I'ts a hobby for me and often I've steered people to a knife that suits the task that it is required for eg: a person I know bought a Rambo style "survival knife " for hiking and camping he used it for chopping wood and no surprise it broke he bought the knife to me asking if I could fix it I advised him to thow it in the bin and buy a decent knife, he ended up getting a Becker companion knife.The Blade:
Orignal From: buying a field/hunting /tactical knife
Orignal From: buying a field/hunting /tactical knife
Buying a knife
Searching start to finish on ebay I found 3 out of 400 possible knives I'd be prepared to bid on. The rest were crap.
The ones I did find were a massive F.Dick splitting knife - strictly
for the pros, and an online shop stocking Furi and Global knives.
For the average home cook a 15 - 20cm chefs knife and a 6-9cm paring
knife is all you will ever need. Furi are heavy for their size, Global
are lightweight for their size. Men will be happier with the Furis, women tend to prefer the Globals, but there are plenty of exceptions.
Orignal From: Buying a knife
The ones I did find were a massive F.Dick splitting knife - strictly
for the pros, and an online shop stocking Furi and Global knives.
For the average home cook a 15 - 20cm chefs knife and a 6-9cm paring
knife is all you will ever need. Furi are heavy for their size, Global
are lightweight for their size. Men will be happier with the Furis, women tend to prefer the Globals, but there are plenty of exceptions.
Orignal From: Buying a knife
FAKE VIETNAM WAR MEDALS MADE IN CHINA SOLD ON EBAY
Most Vietnam veterans' would say an original RVN Vietnam medal is a medal that was awarded during the Vietnam War 1963 to 1975 for the United States,
Orignal From: FAKE VIETNAM WAR MEDALS MADE IN CHINA SOLD ON EBAY
Orignal From: FAKE VIETNAM WAR MEDALS MADE IN CHINA SOLD ON EBAY
Cut throat razor / strop and Shaving brush tips.
A basic introduction to cut throat razor and shaving brush care.
The Razor.
Stainless steel razors do not need a special treatment but all razors should be washed with clean water after use and then carefully dried. If you do not intend to use the razor for a long time, it is recommended to lightly oil it.
The Shave.
When using a razor for the first time, start with the easy and soft parts of the face. Hold the opened razor with thumb and three fingers so that the opened handle shows away from the face.
Prepare the skin with a good shaving soap. With an angle of approximately 30 degrees, first shave down with the razor then shave up. If you hold the razor too flat it will tear the stubble.
Always shave in the direction of the cutting edge, never laterally.
If the razor is damaged by falling on a hard surface, it should be professionally attended to before using again as the fine edge may need regrinding.
Shaving brushes.
Once you have finished shaving, rinse your shaving brush thoroughly and gently flick the brush to rid excess water to avoid rot and mildew.
Orignal From: Cut throat razor / strop and Shaving brush tips.
The Razor.
Stainless steel razors do not need a special treatment but all razors should be washed with clean water after use and then carefully dried. If you do not intend to use the razor for a long time, it is recommended to lightly oil it.
The Shave.
When using a razor for the first time, start with the easy and soft parts of the face. Hold the opened razor with thumb and three fingers so that the opened handle shows away from the face.
Prepare the skin with a good shaving soap. With an angle of approximately 30 degrees, first shave down with the razor then shave up. If you hold the razor too flat it will tear the stubble.
Always shave in the direction of the cutting edge, never laterally.
If the razor is damaged by falling on a hard surface, it should be professionally attended to before using again as the fine edge may need regrinding.
Shaving brushes.
Once you have finished shaving, rinse your shaving brush thoroughly and gently flick the brush to rid excess water to avoid rot and mildew.
Orignal From: Cut throat razor / strop and Shaving brush tips.
CLOCK CLEANING AND REPAIR PART 2
If you have tried cleaning and oiling your clock as described previously and it still will not run, here is some more information to try.
Orignal From: CLOCK CLEANING AND REPAIR PART 2
Orignal From: CLOCK CLEANING AND REPAIR PART 2
Valuing Your Coins!
ValuesFinding out the value of your old accumulation of coins can be quite painful.But dont panic!! There's plenty of help around if you know where to look.Greg McDonlad publishes an
Orignal From: Valuing Your Coins!
Orignal From: Valuing Your Coins!
Postage Stamps And Postal History Of Australia
Stamps Australia OnlineThis is an overview of the postage stamps and postal history of Australia.
The various colonies that joined to form the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901 had long operated their own postal systems; see the articles on the systems of New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania, Victoria, and Western Australia for the respective details. At federation the Commonwealth was granted the power to operate a central postal system through Section 51(v) of the Australian Constitution. Although unification of systems was expected to occur quickly, and a federal postmaster general was appointed, the process was delayed for several years; the stamps of each colony were not recognized by other colonies until 1910, and postal rates only became uniform throughout Australia on 1 May 1911. The Postmaster-General's department eventually became Australia Post in the 1970s - see that article for more details of the organizational aspects of Australia's postal system.
Although one-penny postcards and lettercards appeared in 1911, for most students of the area, Australian philately proper begins in early 1913 with the Kangaroo and Map series of stamps, featuring a kangaroo standing on a map of Australia, and inscribed "AUSTRALIA POSTAGE". The first issue of the series consisted of 15 values ranging from a half penny to two pounds. The watermark was the first of several variations on the "A surmounted by a crown" theme, in this case the "wide crown and wide A". Kangaroo and Map stamps were reprinted several times: in 1915 with first the "wide crown and narrow A" watermark, then the "narrow crown and narrow A"; in 1929 with the "multiple small crown and A" watermark, and higher values in two colors; in 1932 with the "multiple small crown and C of A" watermark. In December 1945 the series ended with a redrawn two-shilling stamp. Most of the Kangaroo and Map stamps are readily available today, although values of 5 shillings and up are expensive.
1913 also saw the first profile of King George V, a one-penny value in carmine. A cleaner version of the design was issued in 1914, and various denominations appeared from time to time, along with changes of watermark, as late as 1932. A 6-penny stamp depicting a kookaburra appeared in 1914 as well.
The Commonwealth's first commemorative stamp was issued on 9 May 1927 to mark the opening of Parliament House in Canberra. Commemmoratives began appearing regularly in the 1930s, typically as sets of two to four of the same design, with the low value common and the higher values issued in much smaller numbers.
The accession of George VI in 1937 was the occasion for a new definitive series of 14 designs, featuring both portraits of the new King and Queen, as well as Australia's unique animals, including the kangaroo, kookaburra, koala, platypus, and the commercially important Merino sheep. In 1938 the King and Queen portraits on the low values were re-engraved for improved appearance, and in 1942 they were superseded by new designs, along with a 5 1/2p value depicting an emu.
New definitives from 1950 on showed an older George and Elizabeth, then gave way in 1953 to a profile of Elizabeth II. 1953 also saw the curious "PRODUCE FOOD!" stamps, depicting scenes from the butter, wheat, and beef industries, and issued to encourage food production. A 1956 issue for the Olympic Games being held in Melbourne included early examples of stamps printed in full color, and in 1957 Australia's first Christmas stamp began an annual tradition.
The definitive series of 1959 used various portraits of the Queen for its low values, and a variety of plants and animals for the higher ones. Fluorescent paper began to be used in the 1960s. A series of 1963 included birds and well-engraved portraits of early explorers and their ships for values going up to two pounds.
The introduction of decimal currency necessitated a new series of definitives in 1966. Values from 1c to 5c used the same portrait of the Queen, in different colors, while higher values included sea life in addition to the 1963 designs redrawn with decimal values; for instance, the 4-shilling Abel Tasman of 1963 became a 40c stamp of 1966.
Stamp-issuing policy was relatively restrained in the 1970s, but in the 1980s and 1990s, considerable numbers of stamps began to appear, and many miniature sheets were overprinted for local stamp shows.
Old Australian Postboxes found at the Australian National Museum
Orignal From: Postage Stamps And Postal History Of Australia
The various colonies that joined to form the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901 had long operated their own postal systems; see the articles on the systems of New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania, Victoria, and Western Australia for the respective details. At federation the Commonwealth was granted the power to operate a central postal system through Section 51(v) of the Australian Constitution. Although unification of systems was expected to occur quickly, and a federal postmaster general was appointed, the process was delayed for several years; the stamps of each colony were not recognized by other colonies until 1910, and postal rates only became uniform throughout Australia on 1 May 1911. The Postmaster-General's department eventually became Australia Post in the 1970s - see that article for more details of the organizational aspects of Australia's postal system.
Although one-penny postcards and lettercards appeared in 1911, for most students of the area, Australian philately proper begins in early 1913 with the Kangaroo and Map series of stamps, featuring a kangaroo standing on a map of Australia, and inscribed "AUSTRALIA POSTAGE". The first issue of the series consisted of 15 values ranging from a half penny to two pounds. The watermark was the first of several variations on the "A surmounted by a crown" theme, in this case the "wide crown and wide A". Kangaroo and Map stamps were reprinted several times: in 1915 with first the "wide crown and narrow A" watermark, then the "narrow crown and narrow A"; in 1929 with the "multiple small crown and A" watermark, and higher values in two colors; in 1932 with the "multiple small crown and C of A" watermark. In December 1945 the series ended with a redrawn two-shilling stamp. Most of the Kangaroo and Map stamps are readily available today, although values of 5 shillings and up are expensive.
1913 also saw the first profile of King George V, a one-penny value in carmine. A cleaner version of the design was issued in 1914, and various denominations appeared from time to time, along with changes of watermark, as late as 1932. A 6-penny stamp depicting a kookaburra appeared in 1914 as well.
The Commonwealth's first commemorative stamp was issued on 9 May 1927 to mark the opening of Parliament House in Canberra. Commemmoratives began appearing regularly in the 1930s, typically as sets of two to four of the same design, with the low value common and the higher values issued in much smaller numbers.
The accession of George VI in 1937 was the occasion for a new definitive series of 14 designs, featuring both portraits of the new King and Queen, as well as Australia's unique animals, including the kangaroo, kookaburra, koala, platypus, and the commercially important Merino sheep. In 1938 the King and Queen portraits on the low values were re-engraved for improved appearance, and in 1942 they were superseded by new designs, along with a 5 1/2p value depicting an emu.
New definitives from 1950 on showed an older George and Elizabeth, then gave way in 1953 to a profile of Elizabeth II. 1953 also saw the curious "PRODUCE FOOD!" stamps, depicting scenes from the butter, wheat, and beef industries, and issued to encourage food production. A 1956 issue for the Olympic Games being held in Melbourne included early examples of stamps printed in full color, and in 1957 Australia's first Christmas stamp began an annual tradition.
The definitive series of 1959 used various portraits of the Queen for its low values, and a variety of plants and animals for the higher ones. Fluorescent paper began to be used in the 1960s. A series of 1963 included birds and well-engraved portraits of early explorers and their ships for values going up to two pounds.
The introduction of decimal currency necessitated a new series of definitives in 1966. Values from 1c to 5c used the same portrait of the Queen, in different colors, while higher values included sea life in addition to the 1963 designs redrawn with decimal values; for instance, the 4-shilling Abel Tasman of 1963 became a 40c stamp of 1966.
Stamp-issuing policy was relatively restrained in the 1970s, but in the 1980s and 1990s, considerable numbers of stamps began to appear, and many miniature sheets were overprinted for local stamp shows.
Old Australian Postboxes found at the Australian National Museum
Orignal From: Postage Stamps And Postal History Of Australia
Restoration of Bronze
Cleaning and Treatment of Ancient Metal Artifacts and Coins
Part - 1 - One
Introduction:
Why does ancient metal deteriorate and what is that green and black
stuff that covers artifacts? The metals from which most artifacts are
made are not naturally occurring in the ground. Instead they are
alloys, or combinations of several different refined metals melted
together and mixed up to create a new metal with certain useful
properties such as low melting temperature, resistance to corrosion, or
flexibility. For Example: Bronze is generally something like 85% copper
and 15% tin melted together and thus combined.
So, the metals from which artifacts have been made have been altered in
two ways. First by refining, or using heat to make pure metal from
metal ores, and second by alloying, or combining refined metals, again
with heat, to create new metals with improved useful properties.
Metals in nature, the way they are found in the ground, are generally
fairly stable. Malachite, the gemstone, is for instance, a stable form
of copper found in nature. It has naturally combined with things in the
environment to create a substance that looks almost nothing like the
metal copper, yet it is made of more than 70% copper and can be refined
to create metallic copper. When the metal copper, which is not stable,
is returned to the earth, it will unrefine itself, slowly, recombining
naturally with elements in the soil, and the result, within a few
hundred years will be a layer of malachite and other related minerals
on the surface of the metal. This is the type of deterioration known as
verdi-gris. (Another example of this is the black or gray tarnish that
you see on silver items. This is silver combining with sulfur in the
environment, and copper alloyed into the silver, combining with oxygen,
both returning to a stable natural condition, and at the same time,
becoming less attractive and useful.)
So, to clarify, metal ores are, through heat, refined and purified into
pure metals that must eventually, at normal temperatures, combine with
elements in their environment and return to their more stable natural
states. This process can take hundreds or even thousands of years, and
is what we know as patination, verdi-gris, corrosion, and the other
properties of aged metal.
The second important thing that happens as metals age is that, those
which are alloyed, or made of a combination of two or more metals, may
separate slowly into their components. An example of this is ancient
silver coins which become brittle. Silver used in coins is almost
always a combination of silver with about 1.5 to 15% copper. Adding a
little bit of copper to silver makes the normally soft silver harder,
and more resistant to wearing down. Silver and copper don't really mix
all that well, however, and over time (300-500 years or more), at
normal temperatures, the copper will sometimes begin to again separate
itself from the silver. The technical name for this is precipitation of
copper at the grain boundaries, which means copper coming out of the
alloy at the edges of the natural crystals of the metal. This is known
as crystallization of the metal, to coin collectors, all though it is
really just the crystals of the metal becoming visible as the copper
comes out of the alloy and begins to corrode, thus weakening the metal.
To clarify this point, some alloys are not stable, and, over hundreds
or thousands of years, they will begin to separate back into more
stable natural states.
Bronze
There are a limited number of major chemical changes that happen to
bronze as it deteriorates, depending on age, soil conditions and a few
other things that are collectively referred to as 'the conditions of
preservation.' The visible results of the changes in the bronze are
collectively referred to as the patination, patina, encrustation, or
verdigris. I will use the terms patina and patination and encrustation
interchangeably.
Pretty much all of the changes that occur in bronze over time are the
result of interactions of the copper in the alloy with the environment.
The tin is relatively inert and is stable in alloy with copper. That
is, it won't separate like silver and copper.
Following are enumerated the different types of copper patina you are likely to encounter:
What is this crusty stuff on my coin or artifact and can it be cleaned:
Let's start with an important note: Most patinas are desirable,
valuable, and attractive, and should not be removed. Some, however are
not. You will need to use your own judgement in this regard, paying
attention to esthetic, and the potential destructiveness of the
particular elements present. Bear in mind that most artifacts and coins
have multiple of the following reactions occurring simultaneously on
their surfaces, and that, cumulatively, they are the irreplaceable
signature of the ages.
Pretty: Copper Oxide, Cupric Oxide, Cuprous Oxide: (red, brown or
black) - Cuprous oxide is generally reddish in color and tends to form
first. It quickly converts to cupric oxide which is dark brown or black
in color. Virtually all ancient bronze coins have at least a thin layer
of brown copper oxide directly on the metal surface.
Orignal From: Restoration of Bronze
Part - 1 - One
Introduction:
Why does ancient metal deteriorate and what is that green and black
stuff that covers artifacts? The metals from which most artifacts are
made are not naturally occurring in the ground. Instead they are
alloys, or combinations of several different refined metals melted
together and mixed up to create a new metal with certain useful
properties such as low melting temperature, resistance to corrosion, or
flexibility. For Example: Bronze is generally something like 85% copper
and 15% tin melted together and thus combined.
So, the metals from which artifacts have been made have been altered in
two ways. First by refining, or using heat to make pure metal from
metal ores, and second by alloying, or combining refined metals, again
with heat, to create new metals with improved useful properties.
Metals in nature, the way they are found in the ground, are generally
fairly stable. Malachite, the gemstone, is for instance, a stable form
of copper found in nature. It has naturally combined with things in the
environment to create a substance that looks almost nothing like the
metal copper, yet it is made of more than 70% copper and can be refined
to create metallic copper. When the metal copper, which is not stable,
is returned to the earth, it will unrefine itself, slowly, recombining
naturally with elements in the soil, and the result, within a few
hundred years will be a layer of malachite and other related minerals
on the surface of the metal. This is the type of deterioration known as
verdi-gris. (Another example of this is the black or gray tarnish that
you see on silver items. This is silver combining with sulfur in the
environment, and copper alloyed into the silver, combining with oxygen,
both returning to a stable natural condition, and at the same time,
becoming less attractive and useful.)
So, to clarify, metal ores are, through heat, refined and purified into
pure metals that must eventually, at normal temperatures, combine with
elements in their environment and return to their more stable natural
states. This process can take hundreds or even thousands of years, and
is what we know as patination, verdi-gris, corrosion, and the other
properties of aged metal.
The second important thing that happens as metals age is that, those
which are alloyed, or made of a combination of two or more metals, may
separate slowly into their components. An example of this is ancient
silver coins which become brittle. Silver used in coins is almost
always a combination of silver with about 1.5 to 15% copper. Adding a
little bit of copper to silver makes the normally soft silver harder,
and more resistant to wearing down. Silver and copper don't really mix
all that well, however, and over time (300-500 years or more), at
normal temperatures, the copper will sometimes begin to again separate
itself from the silver. The technical name for this is precipitation of
copper at the grain boundaries, which means copper coming out of the
alloy at the edges of the natural crystals of the metal. This is known
as crystallization of the metal, to coin collectors, all though it is
really just the crystals of the metal becoming visible as the copper
comes out of the alloy and begins to corrode, thus weakening the metal.
To clarify this point, some alloys are not stable, and, over hundreds
or thousands of years, they will begin to separate back into more
stable natural states.
Bronze
There are a limited number of major chemical changes that happen to
bronze as it deteriorates, depending on age, soil conditions and a few
other things that are collectively referred to as 'the conditions of
preservation.' The visible results of the changes in the bronze are
collectively referred to as the patination, patina, encrustation, or
verdigris. I will use the terms patina and patination and encrustation
interchangeably.
Pretty much all of the changes that occur in bronze over time are the
result of interactions of the copper in the alloy with the environment.
The tin is relatively inert and is stable in alloy with copper. That
is, it won't separate like silver and copper.
Following are enumerated the different types of copper patina you are likely to encounter:
What is this crusty stuff on my coin or artifact and can it be cleaned:
Let's start with an important note: Most patinas are desirable,
valuable, and attractive, and should not be removed. Some, however are
not. You will need to use your own judgement in this regard, paying
attention to esthetic, and the potential destructiveness of the
particular elements present. Bear in mind that most artifacts and coins
have multiple of the following reactions occurring simultaneously on
their surfaces, and that, cumulatively, they are the irreplaceable
signature of the ages.
Pretty: Copper Oxide, Cupric Oxide, Cuprous Oxide: (red, brown or
black) - Cuprous oxide is generally reddish in color and tends to form
first. It quickly converts to cupric oxide which is dark brown or black
in color. Virtually all ancient bronze coins have at least a thin layer
of brown copper oxide directly on the metal surface.
Orignal From: Restoration of Bronze
Important Tips For New eBay Buyers
Hi guys and welcome to eBay, I hope you have lots of fun here and find some great things to buy.
From reading the threads on the Round Table chat board I have found some very sad posts from buyers who have been ripped off.
Either not getting the item they purchased and not receiving a refund from the seller, or getting the item and it being damaged and the selling not willing to replace or refund.
Or just the total rip off seller who lists things like ipods, mp3 players, LCD Tv's and other high risk items, that just take your money and then run.
Its not fair on us good sellers to have the shonky sellers do this to you buyers and it certainly isn't fair on you buyers who trust us sellers with your money and trust that we will do the right thing.
BUT there is a way you can protect yourself, and I cannot emphasise this enough, its so vitally important that you look at the sellers feedback, you can do this by clicking on the number next to their ID in brackets (359), once you click on this number you get taken into their profile page, on the right hand side there is a box and it sais "Period", this has a little drop down menu, click on the drop down and select Past 12 months, then click go, this will then bring up all the feedback for that seller for the past 12 months.
Then on the left, you will find:
Show All, Positive(2000), Negative (140), Neutral (23), Withdrawn (1)
You can then click on Neutral or Negative and read what the comments say about this seller, this will give you a very good idea of what sort of a seller they are, its important for your own safety to read what these say, also how many Neutrals and Negatives they have had in the past 12 months.
The example above is just made up numbers. I personally am VERY wary about buying from a seller who has had 3 negatives in the past 12 months and I will read what those negatives say before I decide to buy from them.
Its up to you as to how many negatives in a 12 month period you feel safe with and still buy, but the less the better for keeping you safe.
Another thing to keep you safe is to pay with paypal, as of September 2007 ALL new sellers have to sell offering paypal, so if you come accross a seller who has joined from September 2007 and they don't offer paypal then do NOT buy from them. Some will say they have paypal but its not set up, or they are unable to use it for some reason etc, this is all just lies.
Others might list their items with paypal and then have in the listing somewhere "Paypal is not accepted from Australian bidders." OR "Paypal is only for items over $10" etc, this is also NOT allowed, if paypal is offered it MUST be accepted from ALL buyers for ALL amounts, even if you win an auction at 99c.
IF you ever feel a bit wary of paying for something or bidding on something, DONT do it yet, always please come to the Round Table and ask us ok, its easy to post a topic, right hand side of the page, Post a topic, then just put in your title and write what your concern is and then click on "Post message" and someone will be along to help you very soon.
But please never pay for something or bid on something if your not sure, or if it sounds to good to be true.
Oh another thing to be careful of, emails, sometimes these might look like they come from ebay but they are not, they are whats called as phishing emails, and they normally have a link in them asking you to click on this link, eBay emails will never have links to click, they will always ask you to log into ebay and do anything from there, the same as paypal emails, they will ask you to log into paypal, NEVER to click on a link, once you click on this link it will ask you for your ebay or paypal ID and password, then the hijacker has your password and can access your account, this is VERY bad news, so if you do get an email that your not sure about, again please DONT click links, come and ask about it on the Round Table.
Umm what else can I warn you about? second chance offers on items you have bid on but not won, most of the time they are on the high risk items mentioned above, ipods etc, but not always, it will usually be from a scammer sent from a different email addy, he will try to get you to take up the second chance offer and then when you pay thats it, you have done your money, he won't send you anything.
The best thing to do if you do get a second chance offer is to email the seller via the item not won page and ask if in fact they did offer you a second chance offer, then you will know if its legitimate or not, but again, if your not sure come and ask us at the Round Table :-)
I'm sure there are lots more things for me to tell you but at the moment I cannot think of them, the most important are:
1. Feedback, check negatives and neutrals and withdrawn.
2. Paypal, ALWAYS pay using paypal if its offered on an item, and especially if the seller is registered from September 2007, do not let them tell you they don't accept paypal when they display the logo, they MUST.
3. Fake emails, NEVER click on links.
4. Fake second chance offers, always email the seller to ask if its sent from them.
5. If ever your not sure about anything, or you get an uneasy feeling about an item you want to bid on, an item you have bid on, a payment method from a seller, ALWAYS come and ask at the Round Table FIRST before you either pay or bid, this can save you a lot of heartache.
Best of all have fun, but be very cautious also.
Welcome to all of you,
Di :-)
Orignal From: Important Tips For New eBay Buyers
From reading the threads on the Round Table chat board I have found some very sad posts from buyers who have been ripped off.
Either not getting the item they purchased and not receiving a refund from the seller, or getting the item and it being damaged and the selling not willing to replace or refund.
Or just the total rip off seller who lists things like ipods, mp3 players, LCD Tv's and other high risk items, that just take your money and then run.
Its not fair on us good sellers to have the shonky sellers do this to you buyers and it certainly isn't fair on you buyers who trust us sellers with your money and trust that we will do the right thing.
BUT there is a way you can protect yourself, and I cannot emphasise this enough, its so vitally important that you look at the sellers feedback, you can do this by clicking on the number next to their ID in brackets (359), once you click on this number you get taken into their profile page, on the right hand side there is a box and it sais "Period", this has a little drop down menu, click on the drop down and select Past 12 months, then click go, this will then bring up all the feedback for that seller for the past 12 months.
Then on the left, you will find:
Show All, Positive(2000), Negative (140), Neutral (23), Withdrawn (1)
You can then click on Neutral or Negative and read what the comments say about this seller, this will give you a very good idea of what sort of a seller they are, its important for your own safety to read what these say, also how many Neutrals and Negatives they have had in the past 12 months.
The example above is just made up numbers. I personally am VERY wary about buying from a seller who has had 3 negatives in the past 12 months and I will read what those negatives say before I decide to buy from them.
Its up to you as to how many negatives in a 12 month period you feel safe with and still buy, but the less the better for keeping you safe.
Another thing to keep you safe is to pay with paypal, as of September 2007 ALL new sellers have to sell offering paypal, so if you come accross a seller who has joined from September 2007 and they don't offer paypal then do NOT buy from them. Some will say they have paypal but its not set up, or they are unable to use it for some reason etc, this is all just lies.
Others might list their items with paypal and then have in the listing somewhere "Paypal is not accepted from Australian bidders." OR "Paypal is only for items over $10" etc, this is also NOT allowed, if paypal is offered it MUST be accepted from ALL buyers for ALL amounts, even if you win an auction at 99c.
IF you ever feel a bit wary of paying for something or bidding on something, DONT do it yet, always please come to the Round Table and ask us ok, its easy to post a topic, right hand side of the page, Post a topic, then just put in your title and write what your concern is and then click on "Post message" and someone will be along to help you very soon.
But please never pay for something or bid on something if your not sure, or if it sounds to good to be true.
Oh another thing to be careful of, emails, sometimes these might look like they come from ebay but they are not, they are whats called as phishing emails, and they normally have a link in them asking you to click on this link, eBay emails will never have links to click, they will always ask you to log into ebay and do anything from there, the same as paypal emails, they will ask you to log into paypal, NEVER to click on a link, once you click on this link it will ask you for your ebay or paypal ID and password, then the hijacker has your password and can access your account, this is VERY bad news, so if you do get an email that your not sure about, again please DONT click links, come and ask about it on the Round Table.
Umm what else can I warn you about? second chance offers on items you have bid on but not won, most of the time they are on the high risk items mentioned above, ipods etc, but not always, it will usually be from a scammer sent from a different email addy, he will try to get you to take up the second chance offer and then when you pay thats it, you have done your money, he won't send you anything.
The best thing to do if you do get a second chance offer is to email the seller via the item not won page and ask if in fact they did offer you a second chance offer, then you will know if its legitimate or not, but again, if your not sure come and ask us at the Round Table :-)
I'm sure there are lots more things for me to tell you but at the moment I cannot think of them, the most important are:
1. Feedback, check negatives and neutrals and withdrawn.
2. Paypal, ALWAYS pay using paypal if its offered on an item, and especially if the seller is registered from September 2007, do not let them tell you they don't accept paypal when they display the logo, they MUST.
3. Fake emails, NEVER click on links.
4. Fake second chance offers, always email the seller to ask if its sent from them.
5. If ever your not sure about anything, or you get an uneasy feeling about an item you want to bid on, an item you have bid on, a payment method from a seller, ALWAYS come and ask at the Round Table FIRST before you either pay or bid, this can save you a lot of heartache.
Best of all have fun, but be very cautious also.
Welcome to all of you,
Di :-)
Orignal From: Important Tips For New eBay Buyers
Starting a vintage fountain pen collection
During the last few years, vintage fountain pen collecting has undergone a huge increase in popularity.
Orignal From: Starting a vintage fountain pen collection
Orignal From: Starting a vintage fountain pen collection
Pre Decimal STAR Notes - Auction result Reference Guide
Australian Auction RESULTS ReferenceStar Notes Pre Decimal
TEN SHILLINGS Armitage-McFarlane Star (1942)G/52 02706* (R.13s)
Orignal From: Pre Decimal STAR Notes - Auction result Reference Guide
TEN SHILLINGS Armitage-McFarlane Star (1942)G/52 02706* (R.13s)
Orignal From: Pre Decimal STAR Notes - Auction result Reference Guide
Buying a Pianola
BUYING A PIANOLAPianola's (Player Piano's) generally were made from about 1905 until 1935. Most were made between 1917 and 1929. Anything before about 1910 is likely to not take the standard 88 note roll. Patent dates stamped into parts are not an indication of when it was made. A few Pianola's were made in the 60's until present - these are smaller with many plastic parts.
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Orignal From: Buying a Pianola
SO YOU WANT TO BUY A PERSIAN RUG ?
SO YOU WANT TO BUY A PERSIAN RUG ? Historically Carpet Sellers have a Reputation for Dishonesty !
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Orignal From: SO YOU WANT TO BUY A PERSIAN RUG ?
Save Big Dollars with Australian Shipping
A little-known and totally unpublicised anomally within Australia Post can save big dollars, for you or your customers!
If you send items in a box
Orignal From: Save Big Dollars with Australian Shipping
If you send items in a box
Orignal From: Save Big Dollars with Australian Shipping
French Carriage Clocks General info and Buying Guide
French Carriage clocks come in a variety of shapes and sizes.They may be time only in which case they are more accurately called a timepiece.There are also striking clocks, alarm clocks or a combination of both.Some and the most valuable are know as repeaters. Repeaters strike the time and with the press of a button will repeat the time by striking a variety of bells and gongs, some to the nearest minute.These clocks were carried around the country side by the more well to do and were protected by a timber and leather outer case, it is rare to find the original case with the clock but it does happen.Most French Carriage clocks were made around 1890 to 1920. Genuine Antiques.They can be fitted with a variety of Escapements mostly Cylinder or LeverThey keep reasonably good time, but expect some adjusting.They are made from brass and either polished and sometimes lacquered or gilded.The glass panels that allow you to see the movement are made from beveled glass, as these can get chipped and broken it's not uncommon to find one or more of these replaced with Acrylic.One important point of recent note is that the Chinese have taken a shine to these clocks, and are mass producing copies/fakes.Some of these clocks are very good copies, and can be difficult to spot.If the dial bears the words Made in France in a rather larger font than you would expect, then be suspicious.If the clock has Enameled side panels with pictures of Cherubs with butterfly nets, again very suspicious.Do a search and see how many clocks say, location From China in the postage section look closely at the clocks and compare them to the one you're interested in.Genuine French Carriage Clocks are a nice to collect are very pretty to look at and have a nice architectural appearance. Some general clock information. You will often see the comment clock seems to be over wound, what this really means is the clock is either so gummed up with old oil that it will not run, or something is broken.All the best and good luck bidding
Orignal From: French Carriage Clocks General info and Buying Guide
Orignal From: French Carriage Clocks General info and Buying Guide
Direct Deposit refund from the Bank?YES IT'S POSSIBLE!
GIVE IT A GO!! IT WORKED FOR ME!! I'm not sure if this will pertain to international Ebayers as the incident occured in Australia, but here we go.
Recently I won the bidding on an item which didn't actually exist. 2 days after I had already payed for the item via
Orignal From: Direct Deposit refund from the Bank?YES IT'S POSSIBLE!
Recently I won the bidding on an item which didn't actually exist. 2 days after I had already payed for the item via
Orignal From: Direct Deposit refund from the Bank?YES IT'S POSSIBLE!
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Royal Doulton Bunnykins - an introduction to collecting
Bunnykins Nurseryware
The Bunnykins family are produced by Royal Doulton, were originally created over 60 years ago by Barbara Vernon,
Orignal From: Royal Doulton Bunnykins - an introduction to collecting
The Bunnykins family are produced by Royal Doulton, were originally created over 60 years ago by Barbara Vernon,
Orignal From: Royal Doulton Bunnykins - an introduction to collecting
Domestic espresso machine
Buying an espresso maker?
There are few appliances that people really talk about in conversation. Coffee machines
Orignal From: Domestic espresso machine
There are few appliances that people really talk about in conversation. Coffee machines
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How to Spot Bootlegged Anime
If you search any anime series here on Ebay, unfortunately you're likely to find bootlegged DVDs, and probably more often that finding legitimate releases. This guide was written to inform anime fans to not buy inferior and illegal dvds. What is a Bootlegged Anime?A bootleg is an illegal pirated version of an Anime series. They are usually of lesser quality to the official liscenced English series. For example, packaging is poorer, subtitles are usually dodgy, etc. How do I spot a Bootleg Anime Series?They are usually region-free. The seller will say that the item can play on all DVD players. DVDs are sorted into several regions, for example USA/Canada is region 1, Japan region 2, Australia is region 4, and so on. Region free anime are going to be bootlegs, as the companies who legitimately liscence these anime only get the liscence for their country.Low Disc Count. For example, the entire third series of Sailor Moon being on 3 discs. The acutal Geneon/Pioneer release has it at about six discs. This means that the bootleggers are sacrificing picture and sound quality as well.Very Low Price - In Australia, the average price of a new, liscenced anime box set is about 120 dollars, depending on how many discs the series contains. Bootlegged series may go for considerably less.Different Appearance to Legitimate Release - Bootlegged anime may be packaged differently to the legitimate releases. They may have different pictures, etc. Its a good idea to chase up the liscensor in English-speaking countries to see what the leigtimate releases look like. No Censorship Warnings - In Australia, all DVDs must have the rating printed obviously on the packages. They used to be white shapes with the code letter inside information, and now they are colour coded. Very obvious.Contains Chinese Subtitles - As far as I know, no Australian anime release has contained Chinese subs. They usually just have English.No English Dub - As far as I know, no anime has been liscenced in Australia without a dub.Case Study: Cowboy Bebop Box SetFor example, in real life, I managed to purchase my box set of Cowboy
Bebop at JB Hi-Fi for 112 dollars. I can see one here on ebay currently
going for 109 dollars. It is region 4, has pictures of each dvd in the box (looks like my JB:Hi-Fi one). The seller specifically says that it won't play on US/Canadian players. I can see the censorship ratings (some discs M, some M15 ) The seller has 96% feedback rating, that in my opinion is acceptable. They've been on Ebay a long time, this item is probably a legal release.Another example is starting at 10 cents, has different packaging to the official madman release, has no censorship ratings. Its a bootleged product. I wouldn't encourage anyone to bid on it. I saw a bootleg! What should I do?Report it to Ebay! At the bottom of the listing theres a link to "report this listing"Don't bid or encourage others to bid!But *insert anime here* isn't available in my country!You could always encourage your local company to get the rights to it. Lots of people wanted to see the series 'Gravitation' in Australia and a while ago Madman released a box-setYou could buy a region-free player, or a player from the country in question. I'm not sure of the legality of that though. I hope I cleared up some of the issues pertaining to bootlegs. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me. I don't sell a lot of things, just things I don't use anymore so I'm not biased really, theres no way I can compete with the 'business' sellers. If you liked this guide, please mark it as useful to you. :) Any suggestions can be PMed to me as well.
Orignal From: How to Spot Bootlegged Anime
Bebop at JB Hi-Fi for 112 dollars. I can see one here on ebay currently
going for 109 dollars. It is region 4, has pictures of each dvd in the box (looks like my JB:Hi-Fi one). The seller specifically says that it won't play on US/Canadian players. I can see the censorship ratings (some discs M, some M15 ) The seller has 96% feedback rating, that in my opinion is acceptable. They've been on Ebay a long time, this item is probably a legal release.Another example is starting at 10 cents, has different packaging to the official madman release, has no censorship ratings. Its a bootleged product. I wouldn't encourage anyone to bid on it. I saw a bootleg! What should I do?Report it to Ebay! At the bottom of the listing theres a link to "report this listing"Don't bid or encourage others to bid!But *insert anime here* isn't available in my country!You could always encourage your local company to get the rights to it. Lots of people wanted to see the series 'Gravitation' in Australia and a while ago Madman released a box-setYou could buy a region-free player, or a player from the country in question. I'm not sure of the legality of that though. I hope I cleared up some of the issues pertaining to bootlegs. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me. I don't sell a lot of things, just things I don't use anymore so I'm not biased really, theres no way I can compete with the 'business' sellers. If you liked this guide, please mark it as useful to you. :) Any suggestions can be PMed to me as well.
Orignal From: How to Spot Bootlegged Anime
Caring For Your Pony
Owning a pony is a big responsibility. You will need to make sure he has food and water each day. You can feed your pony a carrot for a treat. Or even an apple. Make sure you brush your pony. You can spread his poop on your vegetable garden if you have one.
A pony is not just a small horse it is also a friend.
The End.
Orignal From: Caring For Your Pony
A pony is not just a small horse it is also a friend.
The End.
Orignal From: Caring For Your Pony
Buying a Honda postie bike or motor scooter
The first and foremost thing to remember when buying a motorcycle is to make sure that the seller has the appropriate road worthy and safety certificates.
Orignal From: Buying a Honda postie bike or motor scooter
Orignal From: Buying a Honda postie bike or motor scooter
CARLTON WARE: DATES, POPULAR PATTERNS
Ebay Australia has literally 'opened the door' to Carlton Ware collectors, revolutionizing both availability and price of pieces, whilst offering an enjoyable and social environment for the community to trade. This
Orignal From: CARLTON WARE: DATES, POPULAR PATTERNS
Books - Buying
Books are Good.
The buying and selling market for books on Ebay has never been better. Prices and availability of mid-range and scarce books are increasing, but,
Nothing raises the blood pressure more than seeing a book item with a description like, 'what you see is what you get.'
Unfortunately, what you see isn't always what you get.
As a professional book dealer, I'd like to help buyers and sellers cut through the hype and misinformation and finish with a better result all round. Better buyer satisfaction, better sales for sellers.
At the hub lies description - many Ebayers have trouble with jargon and lose interest when a seller fails to deliver on description, or buyers are disappointed when the book finally arrives. Here are some tips:
Good for it's age. Buyers should avoid books described thus. It usually means the item has damage, stains, missing pages or worse. Huge numbers of books published up to 200 years ago exist today in near Mint condition - is this book similar? Faults and good points need to be described and expected.
Missing pages or plates. How many sellers inspect their book to see if it's complete or undamaged? Why wait for a disappointed buyer to make a complaint or send an abusive email?
Descriptions
Orignal From: Books - Buying
The buying and selling market for books on Ebay has never been better. Prices and availability of mid-range and scarce books are increasing, but,
Nothing raises the blood pressure more than seeing a book item with a description like, 'what you see is what you get.'
Unfortunately, what you see isn't always what you get.
As a professional book dealer, I'd like to help buyers and sellers cut through the hype and misinformation and finish with a better result all round. Better buyer satisfaction, better sales for sellers.
At the hub lies description - many Ebayers have trouble with jargon and lose interest when a seller fails to deliver on description, or buyers are disappointed when the book finally arrives. Here are some tips:
Good for it's age. Buyers should avoid books described thus. It usually means the item has damage, stains, missing pages or worse. Huge numbers of books published up to 200 years ago exist today in near Mint condition - is this book similar? Faults and good points need to be described and expected.
Missing pages or plates. How many sellers inspect their book to see if it's complete or undamaged? Why wait for a disappointed buyer to make a complaint or send an abusive email?
Descriptions
Orignal From: Books - Buying
Buying a genuine Tamagotchi
Hello everyone! This is an eBay guide to buying a genuine Tamagotchi from sellers on eBay from your local Tamagotchi freak. With a collection of nearly 30 of these cute little pets, I thought I could give you some hints and tips to getting a genuine Bandai Tamagotchi.Although the latest "craze" of Tamagotchi has died down a bit since its revival in 2004, these toys still make worthwhile presents to children of all ages. They particularly appeal to girls - what little girl wouldn't love an egg shaped device that would let her raise a cute pet, play with her pet, and go shopping with her pet, all in the one device? A genuine Tamagotchi roughly goes for $25, and they're worth every cent and will keep your child entertained longer than most current toys.You may have been a victim of seeing a "Tamagotchi" for a very cheap price (say, $1.99) and thinking, "Wow, $1.99? BARGAIN!" Once it has been devlivered to your doorstop, your child opens it up... And is disappointed. The characters aren't like her friends' Tamagotchi at school, they can't connect with the infra-red connection, the games are unplayable, and the battery lasts for no more than 3 days. So, you have a further look at it, and there are minute differences to show that they aren't the same - this is a counterfeit product! I'd like to list for you these minute differences so you can become an expert Bandai Tamagotchi identifier from this guide to make shopping a safer experience for you on eBay!Bandai LogoThe Bandai Logo (pictured below) is an obvious dead give away. If there is no Bandai logo, it's not the original Tamagotchi! Always look for the Bandai Logo when buying a genuine Tamagotchi! (image from Bandai.com)PackagingThere have been three versions of Tamagotchi released so far, all with different packaging. Further, there have been American and Asian releases with differing packaging as well! Eep! So many different packages! How are you going to tell which one is right or not?Again, the Bandai logo is a dead give away. The spelling of "Tamagotchi" is also something to look out for - there have been counterfeit products known as "Tanogotchi" or "Tomagotchi" floating around eBay.
Orignal From: Buying a genuine Tamagotchi
Orignal From: Buying a genuine Tamagotchi
How to Get 100 Positive Feedback in 7 Days? - 1 Hour!
I read this auction with great interest, and wondered WHY someone would want 100 Positive Feedback in 7 days.
Orignal From: How to Get 100 Positive Feedback in 7 Days? - 1 Hour!
Orignal From: How to Get 100 Positive Feedback in 7 Days? - 1 Hour!
Bundaberg Rum
We sure love out collection of Bundaberg Rum items.
But lately we have noticed that there is
Orignal From: Bundaberg Rum
But lately we have noticed that there is
Orignal From: Bundaberg Rum
wheels and tyres 4 all UR fitments and sizes 4 UR car
sizes and fitments
some of the the things you look for when buying your wheels. firstly check where they are made if in china please check if their is waranty with that. a lot of wheel people you cant find later when you have a problem.also there should no marks on the wheels when you buy them.check the inside of the wheel, that usually tells you that they either have being on the car or the wheels have
Orignal From: wheels and tyres 4 all UR fitments and sizes 4 UR car
some of the the things you look for when buying your wheels. firstly check where they are made if in china please check if their is waranty with that. a lot of wheel people you cant find later when you have a problem.also there should no marks on the wheels when you buy them.check the inside of the wheel, that usually tells you that they either have being on the car or the wheels have
Orignal From: wheels and tyres 4 all UR fitments and sizes 4 UR car
LIsting for Success - 'ATTENTION GRABBING Item Titles'
Wondering What Makes a Great Item Title?
I'm going to give you several ways of really grabbing the viewer's eye, so he/she will automatically click on your listing probably without even thinking about it.
Orignal From: LIsting for Success - 'ATTENTION GRABBING Item Titles'
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